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2012 KTM 350 EXC-F: Building the perfect "Wee Beasty" 
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After laying the tank back on it's side -- I started loosening the base plate that holds the electrical connections.

IMPORTANT!! This is a PLASTIC base plate ... screwed into a PLASTIC gas tank!

So treat it gently and carefully, eh!
Such as, loosening each bolt just a little bit at a time -- in a star-shaped pattern -- to avoid any warpage.

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The base plate as it is being removed from the gas tank:

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A free beer to anyone who can correctly identify the purpose of the small silver cannister in this picture: :lol:

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Here is the entire fuel pump system with hoses and base plate.
Sorry about how dark the picture is ... I deleted the wrong one when cleaning up the pics. Rats!)

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Working from the base plate end of things:

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The Mahle fuel filter:

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"AYHIN"

Mine: '12 KTM 350 EXC-F (Wee Beasty); '99 Honda VFR 800i Interceptor
Wife's: '08 KTM 250 XCF-W, '04 Honda CBR600 F4i


Wed Jan 18, 2012 11:38 pm
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The fuel pump assembly:

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A fair number of Husaberg owners had a real run of bad luck with failing/failed fuel pump.
The color of the flaky units (Made in China .... of course) were black.
And the new-n-improved models were a brown color.

No guarantees ... but it's nice to see a brown-colored fuel pump here. :^)

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I'm assuming that the blue/black wire pair lead to the low-fuel sensor?

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Locking tab for the fuel pump housing.
This also looks a little more robust than the locking tab on my '10 Husaberg FE 390.

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In fact, the overall fuel pump assembly looks way more solid and well designed.
Our thanks to our Husaberg pioneers for helping work the bugs out, eh!

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If I'm not mistaken, this is one of the several small feed holes where fuel gets into the bottom of the fuel pump.

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The view of the bottom of the fuel pump. The smaller one on the right is the outlet for the external fuel line:

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"AYHIN"

Mine: '12 KTM 350 EXC-F (Wee Beasty); '99 Honda VFR 800i Interceptor
Wife's: '08 KTM 250 XCF-W, '04 Honda CBR600 F4i


Wed Jan 18, 2012 11:40 pm
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Here's a close-up of the quick-disconnect coupler.
That white center section is spring-loaded. And when you depress it, fuel will flow through it.

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Then I tilted over the loose section of fuel line that connects to the gas tank.
And all the fuel ran out all over the paper I had on the workbench. No biggie.

But, what the heck...?!!!

A whole lot of little bits of crap came out with the gas as well!!
I looked at the "stuff" closely.
But I couldn't really tell if they were bits of fuel line flaking off, flaky bits of black plastic from
the fuel housing .... or simply just dirt and dust.
I wish I was rich ... I would have sent them off to CSI for analysis. :mrgreen:

I don't know if you will be able to see stuff from the pictures -- but here goes:

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I don't know what that stuff is ... but I'm willing to bet that it wouldn't due a fuel injector any good. ack.

After closely inspecting the heck out of everything, I used 70% Isopropyl Rubbing Alcohol and rinsed and flushed the gas tank several times.
I mean, rinsed and flushed it GOOD. 'cause I sure didn't want to have to do this again any time soon!
I followed that up with using an air compressor to blow through the gas tank to help the alcohol evaporate.

I then let the tank air dry for a full day. Done.

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"AYHIN"

Mine: '12 KTM 350 EXC-F (Wee Beasty); '99 Honda VFR 800i Interceptor
Wife's: '08 KTM 250 XCF-W, '04 Honda CBR600 F4i


Wed Jan 18, 2012 11:56 pm
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Installing the fuel pump and fuel lines back into the gas tank


Well, I knew this could be a real challenge to "easily" install the fuel pump back in the gas tank.
By that I mean, you can accomplish any thing ... but it can also be a real PITA. lol.

But the wife came through with some great ideas on being able to feed the assembly back in the gas tank!

First off, we fed some *very* heavy duty thread into the gas tank fuel pump holes.
(BTW, this is our third attempt as we learned a lot on the first two attempts. lol.)

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We put a safety pin on the end of the thread to give it some weight and to make it easy to fish out.

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Then tied the thread to a 10mm box-end wrench to help pull on the thread.
(THE SIZE OF THE WRENCH IS VERY IMPORTANT! Not. <g>)

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And here's the trick that made it all work so easy.
Susan tied a "slip knot" onto the threaded end of the fuel pump.
It was then tight enough so that we could pull and guide the fuel pump into place -- but also loose
enough to slip off when we were done.

Ta-da!!

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It was then a simple matter of installing the fuel pump nuts and torquing them down.

IMPORTANT! Once again, you are tightening o-rings down onto a plastic gas tank! Don't over do it!!
I also put a *VERY* light film of grease on the surface of the o-rings themselves.

>> Fixation nut on fuel pump (torque to): 15 Nm (or) 11.1 lb/ft (or) 133.2 lb/in.

>> Fuel connection (fuel line) on fuel pump (torque to): 10 Nm (or) 7.4 lb/ft (or) 88.8 lb/in.


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"AYHIN"

Mine: '12 KTM 350 EXC-F (Wee Beasty); '99 Honda VFR 800i Interceptor
Wife's: '08 KTM 250 XCF-W, '04 Honda CBR600 F4i


Thu Jan 19, 2012 12:22 am
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There!

That ought to keep you lunk-heads busy for a while! :lol:

Tomorrow is looking good for posting: installing the Golan FI fuel filter, de-smogifyin', and installing the KTM radiator fan.

Enjoy! E-Ticket

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"AYHIN"

Mine: '12 KTM 350 EXC-F (Wee Beasty); '99 Honda VFR 800i Interceptor
Wife's: '08 KTM 250 XCF-W, '04 Honda CBR600 F4i


Thu Jan 19, 2012 2:16 am
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Thank you so much for posting this stuff. Just picked up a 350 exc in December and your thread is a great resource.


Thu Jan 19, 2012 6:35 pm
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mcskeeto wrote:
Thank you so much for posting this stuff. Just picked up a 350 exc in December and your thread is a great resource.

My pleasure, sir! And that's one of the reasons I did it. :^)

E-Ticket

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"AYHIN"

Mine: '12 KTM 350 EXC-F (Wee Beasty); '99 Honda VFR 800i Interceptor
Wife's: '08 KTM 250 XCF-W, '04 Honda CBR600 F4i


Thu Jan 19, 2012 7:08 pm
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Quote: A free beer to anyone who can correctly identify the purpose of the small silver cannister in this picture.


Pressure regulator.

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Josh Goodnight,2000 WR400F
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Fri Jan 20, 2012 11:40 am
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JOSHGNGT wrote:
Quote: A free beer to anyone who can correctly identify the purpose of the small silver cannister in this picture.

Pressure regulator.

Bingo! And if we ever get a chance to ride together ... your first beer is on me, sir!

:occasion5: E-Ticket

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"AYHIN"

Mine: '12 KTM 350 EXC-F (Wee Beasty); '99 Honda VFR 800i Interceptor
Wife's: '08 KTM 250 XCF-W, '04 Honda CBR600 F4i


Fri Jan 20, 2012 11:47 am
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KTM "teeny-tiny" In-line fuel filter and the Golan FI fuel filter


I decided to go ahead and install the Golan FI fuel filter while the gas tank was off.

"WHAT ...???? You're going to install *another* fuel filter ....??!!!"

Yup. And here's why, Bunky.

== If you're a technical woods rider ... walking 10 miles out of the woods over some gnarly/technical trail ... without your bike .... sucks.
== If you're a trackie .... having the engine cut out as you're doing a big triple .... sucks *BIG* time.
Not to mention incredibly dangerous.

Replacing the small, stock, KTM in-line fuel filter is a necessity due to it's incredibly small size and tendency to plug or swell and cut off your fuel.

Installing a Golan or Can-Am FI fuel filter before the injector helps ensure that *virtually no* dirt/dust/smooge is reaching your fuel injector.
And installing it between the quick-disconnect and the injector helps catch any dust/dirt picked up when the fuel connector is apart.
(Remember to use your wash cap covers, boys and girls!)


The 2012 KTM four-strokes (4T) come with a very, very tiny, black, cone-shaped fuel filter ... that is located *INSIDE* of the fuel rail that connects to the fuel injector body.
The fuel line then actually slips *over* the end of this filter .... as it slides onto the barb fitting of the fuel rail.
This tiny filter is the final dirt barrier between the quick-disconnect coupler and the fuel injector.

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The fuel filter that came with the "early run" 2012 models is black-colored and can filter down to 10 microns.
But due to it's very small size -- it plugs way too easy.
It is also *rumored* to swell from engine heat (?) and close off the fuel flow. But that hasn't actually been proven.
Either way - it is problematic and affects/shuts off the fuel flow.
Which leads to hard starting, sputtering, bogging, poor performance, and a potentially damaging lean condition.

To address this issue, KTM has issued Tech Service Bulletin (TSB) 1202.

The TSB kits contain a screw-type FI clamp for the fuel line and a light-grey-colored fuel filter to replace the black one in the fuel line.
The grey-colored filter has a larger mesh that can filter down to 20 microns.
Which means that it will be less prone to plugging ... but that it will also not supply as much protection as the black, 10 micron filter.
This is why some peeps are completely removing the final, cone-shaped filter (regardless if it is the black, 10 micron
or grey, 20 micron model) and replacing it with another external FI fuel filter.

One of the current "replacement" filters of choice is the Golan "Super Mini" fuel filter.
It is stainless-steel, rated at 10 microns filter capability, can flow 6 gpm (that's a big point, BTW),
and you can clean or replace the filter element.
It is also small enough to fit in between the quick-disconnect coupler and the fuel rail on the throttle body.

Golan "Super Mini" FI fuel filter:
Length: 0.675" long, not include Barbed Ends
Diameter: Super Mini: 1.375"
Weight: 1 Ounce
Barb size: 0.312 (5/16")
P/N: 70-312G (5/16" Barbed Fittings)

Here's a pic of the Golan Super Mini filter:

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So that's the rationale on the "why" I'm installing the external FI fuel filter .... here's the "how" to do it.

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"AYHIN"

Mine: '12 KTM 350 EXC-F (Wee Beasty); '99 Honda VFR 800i Interceptor
Wife's: '08 KTM 250 XCF-W, '04 Honda CBR600 F4i


Thu Jan 26, 2012 1:22 am
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Installing the Golan FI fuel filter


At this point in time, I had not yet decided to do a "de-smogify" ... so I wanted to see if it was possible to
install the Golan filter with the bike still in stock from

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Gaackk....!! :shock: Man, this won't be easy.
There is just *not* much room in there. For much of anything!

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Hmmm ....
Well, my first thought was that if I can move/re-route the hydraulic clutch line ... I might be able to free up some room.

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My next step was to tape the Golan filter in place (where I thought I wanted to install it), re-mount the gas tank and check out clearance for the fuel filter.
Cool! No problem. There's *TONS* of room. Heck, I could smuggle puppies up there if I had to. :wink:

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Next step was to remove the emissions canister, swing the Secondary Air Supply (SAS) up out of the way,
and disconnect or move the rest of the emission hoses. Wow. That freed a bunch of room.
Hey! This might just work! (grin)

I also clipped the zip-ties and restraining clips on the clutch line to see what I could do with it.
Hmmm! Quite a bit of slack to play with there as well.

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_________________
"AYHIN"

Mine: '12 KTM 350 EXC-F (Wee Beasty); '99 Honda VFR 800i Interceptor
Wife's: '08 KTM 250 XCF-W, '04 Honda CBR600 F4i


Thu Jan 26, 2012 1:29 am
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BINGO! I got it!

I removed the vent hose from the valve cover, played around with the clutch line and the alternator cable housing,
and was able to route the pair *behind* the vent hose.

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This allowed the clutch line to lay closely along the intake manifold and not take up any more room than necessary.

NOTE: I was *very* careful to check out possible chafe points on the clutch line and intake manifold.
It does no good to do something like this if it just going to wear a hole in something some day.
I used the plastic clips joining the clutch line and alternator cable together, and a bunch of zip-ties to make
sure that everything would stay in place and not flop around and rub on something.

TIP: Every time you take off your gas tank ... check any re-routed cable/hoses for shifting and chafing.

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Now I started working out the correct place to cut the fuel line for inserting the filter.
As in, at the halfway point? Do I need to cut out a section of fuel line to make the filter fit where I want it to?

What I also did at this point was to start playing with the routing of the wire and connector for the solenoid valve
on the bottom of the throttle body. As in, I needed to free up more room around the fuel rail connection point
on the throttle body for removing and replacing the black, 10 micron filter.
That, and I was going to need more "room" for installing the screw-type hose clamp.

So what you can't see here is *another* hour screwing around with putting cables here. No....
Putting cables there. No .... Maybe if I route it *this* way? No ..... #-o
And so on, and so on.

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_________________
"AYHIN"

Mine: '12 KTM 350 EXC-F (Wee Beasty); '99 Honda VFR 800i Interceptor
Wife's: '08 KTM 250 XCF-W, '04 Honda CBR600 F4i


Thu Jan 26, 2012 1:35 am
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After *ENDLESS* measuring, double-measuring, and second-guessing ... LOL .... I figured out that I didn't have to
cuto out any fuel line at all.
If I simply cut the fuel line and inserted the fuel filter -- it would make the length of the fuel line slightly longer.
Which would give me the ability to "arc out" the fuel line away from the idle knob on the throttle body.

So I cut it. aieee. :shock:
And luckily, I was okay. :mrgreen: (grin) =D>

IMPORTANT! These are FI-approved hose clamps.
They are stainless-steel, have a rolled-edge band that goes clear around the fuel line, and use a bolt and nut to do the clamping.
All of these features are needed to supply an even clamping force and not cut into the fuel line.
Don't forget about that 50 psi of pressure in the fuel line!

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IMPORTANT! Make sure that the arrow on the filter is pointing in the direction of the fuel flow.
Also verify that the bolts on the hose clamps are not going to rub on anything once you lock everything down.

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Slipped the gas tank back on to check clearances. And there's plenty ... woo-hoo!

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_________________
"AYHIN"

Mine: '12 KTM 350 EXC-F (Wee Beasty); '99 Honda VFR 800i Interceptor
Wife's: '08 KTM 250 XCF-W, '04 Honda CBR600 F4i


Thu Jan 26, 2012 1:40 am
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Removing the stock, black, in-line, 20 micron fuel filter

Because I now had a 10 micron filter between the quick-disconnect and the injector --- the teeny-tiny,
black, in-line, 20 micron fuel filter was no longer needed. So out it comes!

But how, eh? There are two ways:

== Unscrewing the Phillips screw and removing the fuel rail from the throttle body.
This is fairly straightforward -- but the sealing o-ring can be a real pain to get back in cleanly without
nicking or tearing it.

== Removing the stock, stepped hose clamp and sliding off the fuel line.

I chose to remove the stock hose clamp. WHAT A PITA!!!
There is no room to work in there on the hose clamp -- and you have to *VERY* careful not to torque the fuel rail itself.
After a ton of working at it with side cutters, tin snips, screwdrivers and needle nose pliers ... I finally got the sucker off.
Geez. .... what a PITA!

If someone knows of an easy way to remove the stock, stepped hose clamps ... I am all ears!!

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Now, you just remove the fuel line and pull out the TEENY-TINY fuel filter.
That's right ... it fits *INSIDE* of the fuel line. No wonder it plugs so easily!

TIP: Use this opportunity to flush out the inside of the fuel line with isopropyl rubbing alcohol
to remove any ethanol residue/gumming and general dirt or debris.

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Then re-install the fuel line and use a screw-type FI clamp to secure it.

_________________
"AYHIN"

Mine: '12 KTM 350 EXC-F (Wee Beasty); '99 Honda VFR 800i Interceptor
Wife's: '08 KTM 250 XCF-W, '04 Honda CBR600 F4i


Thu Jan 26, 2012 1:45 am
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Routing and securing the fuel line


You want to make sure that the fuel filter stays where you want it, doesn't bang around, or rub
on other items such as the idle adjust knob. I used a *TON* of zip-ties to do this.

TIP: Any time that you are installing multiple zip-ties at the same time, or in the same area,
mount them all, but do not tighten them all the way at first.

Each time that you tighten a zip-tie, it typically moves the object you're trying to secure.
Invariably that will change what angle, how much, and when you should tighten the next one in line.
So go slow, and tighten the zip-ties a little bit a time, and it's amazing how much more effective they can be.

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I also used a piece of rubber tubing and a zip-tie to make a "stand-off" to hold the fuel line and filter
exactly where I wanted them.

First step is to route the zip-tie through the rubber or plastic tubing:

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You then wrap the zip-tie around the fuel line, back through the tubing "stand-off," and
tighten every thing down.

TIP: Go slow and take your time here. Don't worry if takes a couple of tries and several zip-ties
to get it just right. It is pretty much a trial-and-error process.

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TIP: Slide a piece of bicycle inner tube over the Golan fuel filter to give it some chafing protection
and to help keep it cool.
Remember, it will be sitting right next to the head.
I might even have to put some actual heat shielding on it - but wanted to try this first to see if it's enough.


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I then re-installed all the emissions equipment and vacuum lines. Man, it's tight!
What you can't tell here is just how many times I took line (a) and (b) off .... over and over ... to
make sure that they would all fit together well. What a PITA. ](*,)

But I did end back up at "stock configuration" with a Golan fuel filter installed!
So for those who want to stay fully emission-compliant ... it *is* possible.
It's just a real P ... well, you know. (grin)

Image

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Installed the tank one last time to check all clearances and hose and cable routing. Woo-hoo ... done!

Image

_________________
"AYHIN"

Mine: '12 KTM 350 EXC-F (Wee Beasty); '99 Honda VFR 800i Interceptor
Wife's: '08 KTM 250 XCF-W, '04 Honda CBR600 F4i


Last edited by E-Ticket on Thu Jan 26, 2012 11:10 am, edited 1 time in total.



Thu Jan 26, 2012 1:51 am
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